Leather and Fabrics
Our raw materials
Leather is the most important building block of any men’s shoe, and its production is a process that requires masterful skill. The following rule of thumb applies to all high-quality men’s shoes: the more the leather is processed, the higher it is in quality. And of course this comes at a price. About 47 percent of the production cost of making a men’s shoe is due to the precious raw material.
Our calf tanneries come from northwestern Spain, Germany and Italy.
The leathers below represent a full range of leather skins. They are all used in the production of luxury shoes and they differ in terms of “look” and “texture”.
Dyed calf leather
With calf leather (dyed calf), craftsmen can paint the pieces by hand using special creams and brushes. The look is very traditional. Source is Conceria Tolio from Italy (the same crust material used by Santoni, Berlutti, Andres Sendra, among others). Read more about Conceria Tolio at https://conceriatolio.com/storia/. Raw leather is then hand painted by our craftsmen.
In addition to the “regular” dyed calf leather, we also offer it engraved with different textures, such as full grain or pebble.
Box calf leather
Most high-quality men’s shoes are made from the skins of calves. Box calf is distinguished mainly by its fineness, flexibility and grain. Box calf leather is hand painted by our craftsmen.
Also called “Suede” or “Lux Suede”. This leather is made from the bottom of the animal skin, making it softer and smoother and can look like a “furry nap”.
Kid Suede is the softest, velvety suede leather from small goatskins. The skins are quite small which increases the price of leather (consumption per pair). It has a more refined finish with a smaller grain on the surface.
Polished calf refers to rectified grain calf. This eliminates any skin imperfections. The look is not as natural as a regular regular full grain, but the look is very good, luxurious. This type of leather is quite expensive due to the finishing processes it needs at the tannery. Polished calf leather is hand-painted by our craftsmen.
A kind of leather finish where the surface is treated to create a very shiny, glossy look.
Lightweight, supple leather made from the outermost layer of a skin, the surface is polished to give the grain a slightly velvety finish called a “nap”
We offer a full range of tailoring fabrics, washcloths and velvets. Tailor patterns like Tweed, Plaid, Tartan, Herringbone, Leopard, etc.
The result of combining these tailoring materials with classic hand-painted leather in a shoe can be truly amazing.